The EU is the most prescriptive of the major cosmetic frameworks and, for that reason, the most predictable. Everything is written down: which ingredients are permitted, at what levels, in which product types. A formula developed against the annexes from the beginning almost never runs into trouble; one checked against them afterwards frequently does.
CPNP notification is the last step, not the first, and brands who treat it as a filing exercise discover the real work behind it too late. This article is the sequence in the order it actually happens. Orientation, not a compliance opinion — the primary sources are at the end.
The Five Things, in Order
- Check the formula against the annexes — during formulation
- Appoint an EU Responsible Person — before the label is designed
- Compile the Product Information File — as documentation is generated
- Commission the Cosmetic Product Safety Report — after the formula is final
- Notify through CPNP — before the product is placed on the market
Only the last one is a portal submission, and it is quick once everything before it exists. The delays live in steps one and four.
Step One: The Annexes Decide Your Formula
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 carries a set of annexes that function as the rulebook for what a cosmetic can contain.
- Annex II — substances prohibited outright
- Annex III — substances restricted, with conditions and maximum concentrations by product type
- Annex IV — permitted colourants
- Annex V — permitted preservatives
- Annex VI — permitted UV filters
Two of these matter disproportionately to Korean-made product.
Annex VI, UV filters. The EU permits several modern filters the US does not, so a Korean sunscreen is closer to EU-compatible than US-compatible. But every filter in your formula must appear on Annex VI at a permitted concentration for the intended use. Check filter by filter before anything else is decided — this is the constraint that most often forces a reformulation, and it is cheap to check and expensive to discover.
Annex II, products of human origin. Cells, tissues and products of human origin are prohibited in EU cosmetics. This rules out human stem cell-derived exosomes and human cell conditioned media even though Korea permits them under its own safety standard. A product made legally for the Korean market is not automatically exportable — see exosome sourcing and what each market allows.
Also on the formulation side: the animal testing bans apply to finished products and to ingredients, so a raw material with cosmetic-purpose animal test data is a problem wherever the testing happened. Nanomaterials carry additional notification requirements. CMR substances are restricted.
Our formulation work runs the annex check at the start when the destination markets are known. That is the whole reason we ask for markets in the brief rather than at quoting — see how to brief a Korean formulation lab.
Step Two: The Responsible Person Is a Legal Role
Every cosmetic placed on the EU market needs a Responsible Person established in the EU, and its name and address go on the label.
Three things brands get wrong here:
A Korean manufacturer cannot be it. The role requires EU establishment. We supply the manufacturing documentation the Responsible Person needs; we cannot hold the role.
A distributor is not automatically one. Many EU distributors will act as Responsible Person and many will not. Confirm in writing before the label is designed, because the address has to be printed on it.
It is not a mailbox. The Responsible Person is accountable for compliance, holds the Product Information File, deals with authority requests and handles safety issues. Choosing one on price alone is choosing your compliance partner on price alone.
Selling direct to EU consumers through your own online store triggers the requirement just as retail distribution does. There is no e-commerce exemption.
Step Three: The Product Information File
The PIF is the dossier the Responsible Person keeps accessible to authorities for a defined period after the last batch is placed on the market. It contains:
- Product description and identity
- The Cosmetic Product Safety Report (see below)
- Manufacturing method description and a statement of compliance with good manufacturing practice
- Proof of the claimed effect, where the nature of the claim requires it
- Data on animal testing carried out
Most of the manufacturing-side content is generated during normal development, which is why assembling it as you go costs nothing and reconstructing it later is expensive. From our side that means the full quantitative formula, raw material specifications, certificates of analysis, the manufacturing method, GMP statement, stability and challenge reports, compatibility data, and allergen, CMR and nanomaterial statements — supplied through export and regulatory support.
Step Four: The Safety Report Is Where Time Goes
The Cosmetic Product Safety Report has two parts: the safety information (Part A) and the assessment itself (Part B), which must be carried out by an appropriately qualified safety assessor.
This is the step that surprises people. It is not a form. The assessor reviews the formula, the toxicological profile of each ingredient, the exposure scenario, the target population, the stability and preservation data, and the packaging, and reaches a conclusion. If something in that package is inadequate, the assessor says so, and you are back in formulation or back in testing.
Two consequences for planning:
It happens after the formula is final and after stability data exists. You cannot parallelise it away. What each test contributes is set out in stability testing explained.
A weak file makes it slower. Assessors ask for what is missing. Every round trip is calendar time. A complete manufacturing dossier delivered at the start is the single thing that makes this step fast.
Step Five: Notification
CPNP notification is submitted by the Responsible Person before the product is placed on the market. It covers the product identity and category, the formulation frame, labelling, the Responsible Person details, and — importantly — information that poison centres can act on in an emergency.
A single notification covers all member states. This is the reason the EU is often the cheapest second market to add: the expensive work is the PIF and the safety report, and both extend across the bloc.
Labelling remains per market in practice, because the particulars that must be understandable to the consumer have to be in the language of each country where you sell. The INCI list stays in INCI. See what a Polish launch involves for how that plays out in one of the strongest K-beauty markets in Europe.
The UK Is Not Included
Since Brexit, Great Britain runs a separate system: SCPN notification, a Responsible Person established in the UK, and its own annexes that began identical to the EU's and have diverged in places. Northern Ireland follows the EU route under the Windsor Framework.
Brands selling into both need two notifications and two Responsible Persons, with two label addresses or two label versions. Plan it as one exercise rather than discovering it after EU artwork is printed — the UK route sets out the differences.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can our Korean manufacturer be the EU Responsible Person?
No. The Responsible Person must be established in the EU and is named on the label. For imported product it is normally the importer, an EU distributor willing to take the role, or a specialist service provider. The manufacturer supplies the documentation that goes into the Product Information File but cannot hold the role.
Do we need CPNP notification if we only sell online into the EU?
Yes. Placing a product on the EU market through any channel, including direct e-commerce from outside the EU, triggers the requirement. There is no exemption for online-only sales.
How long does the EU route take?
The notification itself is quick. The variable is the safety assessment and any reformulation it triggers, which is why the annex check belongs at the start of formulation rather than the end. Brands who check the formula against Annexes II to VI during development usually avoid the longest delay in the process entirely.
Does one CPNP notification cover every member state?
Yes for notification. Labelling is a separate matter — the particulars that must be understandable to the consumer have to be in the language of each country where you sell, though the INCI list remains in INCI. Plan artwork with space for additional languages if you intend to expand within the bloc.
Can we sell a Korean sunscreen in the EU?
Often yes, and more easily than in the US, because sunscreen is a cosmetic in the EU rather than an over-the-counter drug. But every UV filter must appear on Annex VI at a permitted concentration for the intended use. Check the filter system before anything else — it is the constraint that most often forces a reformulation.
What about exosome or other biotech actives?
Depends entirely on the source. Plant-derived and microbial-derived materials are assessed like any other ingredient. Human cell-derived material is prohibited under Annex II, which rules out human stem cell exosomes and human cell conditioned media in EU cosmetics regardless of how they are processed or whether Korea permits them.
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products — EUR-Lex, European Union, accessed 2026-08-06
- CosIng — Cosmetic Ingredient Database — European Commission, accessed 2026-08-06
- CosIng — Annex II: List of Substances Prohibited in Cosmetic Products — European Commission, accessed 2026-08-06
- Cosmetic ingredient database and the cosmetics legal framework — European Commission, accessed 2026-08-06
This page is general information for manufacturing planning. It is not legal or regulatory advice, it has no legal effect, and no rights can be derived from it. Requirements change by market and over time — before acting on anything here, confirm the current position with the authority concerned or with qualified counsel.
